Annabel's Garden - Winter Greens

Provided you managed to plant those brassica seedlings in late summer (and avoided the usual slow, withering death of neglect on the back porch that most purchased plants suffer), you will now be rewarded with a steady supply of powerhouse harvests though the winter.

It’s over a decade since the World Health Organization issued a mandate recommending everyone eat at least one serving of cruciferous (or brassica) vegetables a day. This vegetable family, which covers broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, Brussels sprouts and all the Chinese cabbages, is considered (because of its potent provision of vital antioxidants and phytochemicals) to provide the body with protective nutrition against a number of diseases, especially certain types of cancer.

Broccoli to my mind offers best value in the brassica family. Not only can I get everyone to eat it (there are a couple of young vegetable-phobes in my family), but its one of those ‘cut and come again’ vegetables that produces a second crop of smaller, sweet offshoot heads after the main trunk and head have been cut (the inner stem too, once peeled of its tough outer skin makes a super crunchy sweet snack). Like all leafy green vegetables, brassica need soil with a high level of organic matter. To get broccoli or cauliflower to develop a good dense head add a little potash or ash (check the wood used has not been treated). For the most, brassica are best suited to quick, light cooking (cabbage however does manage a slow braise – especially when it is stuffed).

To cook a large head of broccoli to green yet tender perfection with minimal loss of nutrients, peel off the outer skin from the stems, cut into florets, and place in a pot with ¼ cup water, a generous splash of extra virgin oil and a sprinkle of sea salt, put the lid on and cook over high heat until it is easily pierced with a sharp knife but still green, about 5 minutes. There is no residual water left at end of cooking (so minimal vitamin loss) and the vegetables are just tender but still vibrantly green.

Now is also a good time also to be enjoying bitter greens such as chicory, radicchio and endive. The Italians greatly value bitter greens throughout the winter; they are considered a liver cleanser and digestive aid in a season of traditionally heavy and stodgy food. For a very pretty, light winter salad with a fresh light flavour toss a few leaves of red radicchio through a green salad with segments of fresh orange and avocado, finish with a little chopped parsley. Dress with fresh orange juice and ground black pepper.

In my Auckland city garden I have established a number of lovely edible landscaping shrubs and trees. Of these, the prolific tamarillo provides a steady crop of ruby egg-shaped fruits throughout the winter months. Provided with a sheltered and frost-free situation, tamarillos are surprisingly easy to cultivate, in fact several plants have already selfseeded in my garden (and the fruit seem to grow true to seed). Make sure they get water over the summer and give them a feed of blood and bone and some potash in the spring. After they have finished fruiting the plants can be pruned, as much as anything to reduce wind damage.

My favourite post-yoga morning pick-me-up is a divine fresh winter juice made with the flesh of 2 tamarillos, 2 apples and 2 oranges. With its gorgeous colour and lovely zoom of fresh flavour, you can feel the sheer goodness as it goes down.

One of the wonderful things about tamarillos is the way they produce a deep rich juice when sprinkled with sugar. This method is known as macerating. It is very easy and once made will keep in the fridge for several days.

To prepare macerated tamarillos, take 6 ripe tamarillos, prick with a knife in a few places, and place in a bowl. Pour over boiling water, stand 5 minutes then drain and peel and discard skins. Slice thinly into a non-corrosive bowl. Sprinkle with ½ cup sugar and 1 tsp vanilla essence. Stand until a rich dark juice has formed and the sugar is largely dissolved, at least 15 minutes. Chill until ready to serve. Serves 4. Macerated tamarillos will keep in the fridge for about a week. Make up in bulk for easy any time use. Prepared thus the tamarillos make a terrific breakfast fruit to serve with yoghurt and cereal. They also are the perfect starting point for a scrumptious Tamarillo, Raspberry & Coconut Crumble (see the final recipe).

COOKING WITH WINTER GREENS

WILTED BITTER GREENS

2 large bunches watercress
1 head of mizuna or a large bunch of mustard greens
¼ cup olive oil
2 tbsp balsamic vinegar
1 tsp Dijon mustard
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Wash the greens and remove their heavy stalks. Mix oil, vinegar, mustard salt and pepper and toss through the greens. When ready to serve heat a heavy large pan. When it’s hot add the greens and toss over high heat just until they wilt. Pile into a serving dish and serve at once.

CRISP CAULIFLOWER & CASHEW SALAD

200g fresh cauliflower
½ cup salted roasted cashews
2 tbsp chopped coriander leaves
1 tsp grated fresh ginger
2 tsp neutral oil
a pinch of salt and several grinds of black pepper

Cut cauliflower into florets, discarding stems. Place in a food processor with cashews and pulse a few times until mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Mix in coriander, ginger, oil, salt and pepper. Toss to combine evenly.

CAULIFLOWER CHEESE

2 heads cauliflower or 400-500g mixed broccoli and cauliflower, cut into florets and cooked until just tender
1½ cups White Sauce
185g (1½ cups) grated tasty cheddar cheese
100g diced ham
2 tbsp sliced almonds

Preheat oven to 220°C. Combine all ingredients and place in an ovenproof dish. Sprinkle with almonds and bake until golden and bubbling, about 15 minutes. Serve with a green salad.

100g butter
5 tbsp flour
4 cups milk
¾ tsp salt
½ tsp fine white pepper
Optional: ½ tsp ground nutmeg

Melt butter in a heavy pot over medium heat. Add flour and stir over heat for a couple of minutes without letting it brown. Gradually add milk, stirring constantly, until sauce is smooth and thickened. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg and simmer, 2-3 minutes.

Remove from heat and if not using at once, cover with baking paper to prevent a crust forming on top. Sauce thickens on cooling. Reheat in the microwave and thin with extra milk as required. Makes 4½ cups. Sauce will keep in the fridge for 3-4 days. It does not freeze well.

STIR-FRY CABBAGE WITH SESAME SEEDS

Slice ½ small cabbage. Heat 1 tbsp oil in a heavybased pan. Toss the cabbage over a medium heat for 2-3 minutes until wilted but still crunchy. Stir in ¼ cup toasted sesame seeds.

COLESLAW

¼ green cabbage
pinch each of sugar and salt
1 carrot, peeled and finely shredded
1 stalk celery, cut thinly on an angle
2 spring onions, thinly sliced
juice of 1 lime or lemon
½ cup mayonnaise

Finely shred cabbage and place in a bowl with a pinch each of sugar and salt. Work the sugar and salt through the cabbage with your hands to release the juices. Toss through carrot, celery, thinly sliced spring onions, lime or lemon juice and mayonnaise.

TENDER LEEKS

When leeks are young you can eat the entire plant. Otherwise just use the white base and pale end of stalks. To achieve melting tenderness in leeks, slice and place in a pot with 2 tbsp olive oil and 1 cup chicken stock. Season and simmer for 12-15 minutes or until tender.

Leeks Vinaigrette

10 baby leeks
½ tsp salt
1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 tbsp Honey Mustard Dressing

Halve leeks lengthways and wash well, removing any grit or soil. Lay leeks flat in a large, deep frying pan or pot. Pour over boiling water to just cover, add salt and oil and simmer gently until tender, about 12-15 minutes. Drain leeks thoroughly. Divide between 4 serving plates and drizzle each one with Honey Mustard Dressing.

Shake together in a jar ¼ cup neutral oil, ¼ cup olive oil, 2 tbsp white wine vinegar, 2 tbsp lemon juice, 2 tsp honey, 2 tsp wholegrain mustard, 1 tsp Dijon mustard, ½ clove crushed garlic, ½ tsp salt and lots of freshly ground pepper. Store in the fridge. Good to make in bulk. Makes 1 small cup

SMOKED CHICKEN & LEEK SOUP

3 medium or 2 large leeks
a small knob of butter
meaty carcass of a smoked chicken
1 large potato, peeled and diced
8 cups water
a little salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tsp finely chopped thyme or rosemary leaves

Split leeks down through the top to where the leaves start to separate out and wash well (leeks often accumulate a lot of dirt in this area). Thinly slice and place in a pot with a small knob of butter. Cook over low heat until leaves have started to soften, about 10 minutes.

Add chicken, potato and water. Season with a little salt and pepper and simmer for 30 minutes. Lift out the chicken carcass and when it is cool enough to handle, strip off meat and finely shred, discard any fat or skin.

Blitz the soup with a hand-held blender wand, before adding the shredded meat to the pot (if there is none you could add some finely chopped smoked chicken or chopped ham). Add thyme or rosemary leaves, adjust seasoning to taste and serve.

TAMARILLO, RASPBERRY & COCONUT CRUMBLE

1 recipe Macerated Tamarilloes (see introduction)
½ cup sugar
3 tsp corn flour
2 cups rolled oats
½ cup flour
¾ cup brown sugar
1 cup coarse thread coconut
1 tsp cinnamon
½ tsp ground cloves
125g butter, melted (or ½ cup flavourless oil, eg grape seed or canola)
2 cups frozen berries

Prepare a recipe of Macerated Tamarilloes and leave until juice has formed. Mix in sugar and cornflour. Put to one side.

Preheat oven to 170ºC. Prepare crumble by combining rolled oats, flour, brown sugar, coconut, cinnamon and ground cloves. Mix in melted butter (or oil) to combine evenly.

Place tamarilloes and juice in a 30 x 40cm baking dish (or shallow casserole dish), sprinkle over frozen berries. Spread half the crumble evenly over fruit (put the other half in the fridge for anytime use – it will keep for weeks). Bake until golden and crunchy, 40-45 minutes.

You will find variations on these recipes and other menu ideas in Annabel’s books:

• Winter Spinach, Witloof & Orange Salad – p.194
• Thai Chicken & Broccoli Stir-Fry – p.44
• Leek, Mushroom & Sausage Risotto – p.205
• Tamarillos in Port – p.228

• Asian Slaw – p.130
• Broccoli Cheese – p.160
• Tamarillo Jelly – p.183

• Broccoli, Braised Beans & Leeks – p.258
• Grilled Tamarillos – p.274

• Leek, Potato & Roasted Garlic Soup – p.44
• Twice-Roasted Five Spice Duck on Noodles & Bok Choy – p.71

• Tuscan White Bean Dip with Bread & Broccoli – p.79
• Pasta with Broccoli, Anchovies & Capers – p.98